Most people buy their Lonely Planet Guide at full retail price to plan their next trip; I bought this old 1998 edition for a mere fifty cents at the local op-shop to take a trip down memory lane. And I discovered so much!
Only the very back of the guidebook, the last three pages 359-361, is dedicated to the place where I had spent most of my time in New Guinea. It begins with the explanation, "The following information is included in case the situation in Bougainville dramatically improves and travel onto the island is once again allowed. But this information is likely to be out of date since Bougainville has been off-limits for eight years and there's been considerable damage to the towns in the south."
And equally so about the first place I had lived and worked in: "Rabaul is a weird wasteland, buried in deep black volcanic ash. The broken frames of its buildings poke out of the mud like the wings of a dead bird. Almost the entire old town is buried and barren and looks like a movie set for an apocalyse film. Streets and streets of rubble and ruined buildings recede in every direction. The scale of what happened to Rabaul cannot be appreciated until you see it. If you were fortunate enough to walk its busy, noisy and colourful streets before September 1994, be prepared for a shock."
With the help of the old town map on page 315 I was able to walk, in my mind, from my office in Park Street to Casuarina Avenue, across Court Street, Namanula Road and Tavur Street, before turning left into Vulcan Street to arrive at the company-supplied accommodation, a converted Chinese trade store which I shared with two other accountants, one of whom stayed for another twenty-four years until the aforesaid volcanic eruption wiped out his business. There but for the grace of God go I.
Then there is the Port Moresby City map on page 112 which also shows Cuthbertson Street where I used to sit in my parked car in the sweltering heat on a Sunday morning, waiting for the newspapers from "down south" to arrive at the news agency. You had to be quick to grab one of the few copies of the weekend edition of the Australian Financial Review which always advertised the best job vacancies. Then a quick check of my mailbox at the post office on the opposite side of the street for letters from "down south" (they used to sort incoming mail on a Sunday back then), but especially for any job offer in response to any of my applications.
Page 131 reminded me of trips to Yule Island where "the missionaries who arrived at Yule Island in 1885 were some of the first European visitors to the Papuan coast of New Guinea." On the way there I would stop over at a small trade store at Hisiu, then run by an Australian and his local wife.
Then there were those many trips out to Idler's Bay to the west, Bootless Inlet to the east, and north to Brown River, or up to Rouna Falls. One time, sailing my CORSAIR dinghy from the Royal Papuan Yacht Club all the way out of Fairfax Harbour far out to sea to Gemo Island and Lolorua Island, I had to tack. My inexperienced crew, Brian Herde, failed to respond to my command of "Lee ho!" to shift his body to the other side of the dinghy, and we promptly capsized. He redeemed himself by diving under the boat and pushing the centreboard back through the slot so that I could grap it as I sat astride the upturned hull to pull the waterlogged boat and mast and sail upright again. I would never have been able to do this on my own and may well have ended up as shark food - but then again, I probably also would have never capsized on my own. Did we have life jackets or emergency flares? Are you kidding me? We were in our twenties and indestructible. Besides, sharks are not deterred by life jackets and we were too far out to sea for anyone to have seen our flares. I lost my precious wristwatch and we lost all our beer but only very nearly our lives.
The map of Lae on page 176 shows the corner of 7th Street and Huon Road where I lived and spent my last Christmas in the country in 1974 before flying out to my next assignment in Burma. My old friend Noel had flown across from Wewak to spend that Christmas with me, only to help me stencil my shipping box with "M.P. GOERMAN / RANGOON / BURMA".
I still remember talking with him about another job I had been offered eighteen months earlier as manager of a thriving co-operative at Angoram on the banks of the mighty Sepik River. Angoram was no more than a couple of hours' drive away from Wewak and I had been tempted to accept to be near my friend but how different things may have turned out because only a few months later, again at Christmas time, I developed accute appendicitis which was quickly and successfully dealt with through a hurried operation at the newly-built hospital at Arawa but which would've been impossible to handle in the remote wilds of the Sepik District. And, of course, no access to the Australian Financial Review, one of whose advertisements had just then secured me my next assignment in Burma. We are so often the result of the circumstances we find ourselves in.
And then there is Wewak itself, described on the guidebook's page 254 as "an attractive town where you can happily spend a day or two in transit to the Sepik or Irian Jaya." Well, that was then: today Weak is a very unsafe and run-down place and the border to Irian Jaya is also closed. The town map on page 256 still mentions the Windjammer Hotel which burnt down many years ago. The larger district map on the facing pages 250 and 251 shows the road to Cape Wom and the Hawain River where my friend Noel used to live before Independence and the unruly natives forced him out.
A great trip back in time for a mere fifty cents!
