Sunday, February 28, 2016

Every boy's dream come true


During my trip back to Thursday Island - see [here] - I heard of the story of a Swedish filmcrew who had visited Ron Brandt on Packe Island where he had lived as a recluse for many years. This is the filmcrew's narrative:


I was sceptical until the last moment.

It was Eino who had heard about him and had contacted the man's brother in Sweden who confirmed that the story was true.

He had read the story in a book by a Danish travel writer. It was about a modern-day Swedish Robinson Crusoe who was said to live alone on a tropical island to the north of Australia. A real Jack London figure who had left Sweden more than 50 years ago and had lived a life of adventure as a sailor, pearl fisherman, crocodile hunter and hermit.

"It sounds like a piece of fiction" I said. "That sort of things doesn't happen anymore. It's as dead as the brontosaurus. It's just the boy inside all of us that still dreams of such adventures."

Gösta BrandBut Eino could produce evidence that this modern-day Swedish Robinson Crusoe existed. He had contacted the man's brother, a Viktor Brand, a farmer who had lived all his life on a farm in Simlångsdalen in Sweden. Viktor confirmed that he had a brother named Gösta who had left Sweden fifty-one years ago.

He had received the occasional short letter and card from his adventurous brother. The last one had been postmarked "Thursday Island", but that was more than a year ago. He thought he had been sick. Maybe he wasn't even alive any more.

Just in case we ever got as far as Thursday Island and found our modern-day Swedish Robinson Crusoe, we recorded a greeting from Viktor on Eino's tape recorder.

Thursday Island was almost as far away from Sweden as one could get. Our first stop after a long international flight was Sydney in Australia, then a domestic flight to Horn Island in the Torres Strait between Australia and New Guinea. Then a short ferry ride across to Thursday Island. (There was also a Friday Island nearby which made me think of Robinson Crusoe again) We had brought with us the cassette recording of Viktor's greetings and a bunch of family photos.

The community on Thursday Island was as large as a Swedish fishing village. It reminded me somewhat of Byxelkrok on the island of Öland. The population consisted mainly of coloured people, not Australian aborigines but South Sea islanders from Melanesia. There were no racial barriers as there seemed to be on the Australian mainland.

Inside the Federal HotelOn our very first evening on the island we freely mixed with snooker-playing and beer-drinking blacks and whites alike in the hotel bar and were able to ask questions about Gösta. Nobody knew a Gösta Brand but they had heard of an old Swede called Ron Brand who lived on Packe Island, an hour away from Thursday Island by fast boat. But he was supposed to be seriously ill, and nobody knew if he was still alive.

Next day the postmaster confirmed that Ron was identical with Gösta - Gösta had simply been too difficult to pronounce for the local people. Two hours later we were on our way to Packe Island in a small boat owned by a South Sea Islander. About twenty minutes into our bumpy ride he yelled, "There is his boat! I am sure he is on it!"

Ron on his boatAt the risk of capsizing our little dinghy and turning us into shark-food, Eino took out his camera and started filming. The boat, an average-sized sailing boat with an auxiliary motor and a dinghy tied to her stern, lay at anchor a few hundred metres off Horn Island. We spotted the bare torso of a man inside the cockpit who disappeared into the cabin as we approached.

"I think he is sick," mumbled our boatman. However, as we got closer, he re-appeared from the cabin and we saw an emaciated, wiry, brownish man wearing a slouch-hat as protection against the sun.

I called out in Swedish, "Are you Gösta Brand? We have come from Sweden to bring you greetings from your brother Viktor."

He answered in a mixture of Swedish and "Sailor's English." Yes, he was Gösta Brand. He lived on Packe Island but had anchored his boat here because he was ill and had wanted to come a bit closer to civilisation. He thought it was his lungs, but he wasn't interested to go to a hospital. And he definitely didn't want our help to return to Sweden!

" I would die on the spot," he laughed. "I have lived far too long in the tropics. If I should die, it has to be on my island or on the boat here."

He was friendly and happy and not at all unsociable as we had anticipated. We suggested that he should follow us out to his island, so that we could film him there. He didn't seem unwilling but was probably too sick to be in front of a camera and also afraid of leaving his boat. With the help of a bottle of whisky he finally agreed to wait for us until the next day when we would come back in a larger boat to tow him back to his island.

Towing Ron's boat

Next day we managed to hire a twin-engined speedboat that bounced along at more than 30 knots. I helped Ron lift the anchor and sat next to him in his boat while we were towed out to sea, with Eino filming from the speedboat. It turned out to be a more dramatic film than we had anticipated as the waves became bigger and wilder until they completely drenched us and filled the dinghy with water. Close to capsizing, we desperately waved our arms to tell the speedboat to turn back.

We were wet, depressed and angry as we dropped Ron and his boat back in the same spot where we had found him. So much for our efforts to film this modern-day Robinson Crusoe's existence on his tiny island!

I don't know whether it was the influence of the whisky or the prospect of appearing on Swedish television but suddenly Ron did agree to leave his boat and come with us to his island in our speadboat. "As long as you bring me back here afterwards," he said.

Ron's hut and beachAn hour later, after having passed other deserted islands, we stepped ashore on a South Sea island straight out of a "Boy's Own" setting. The calm waters of the bay in front of Packe Island were absolutely clear and blue, and the sand was soft all the way up to the palm trees. Palm trees that Ron had planted himself while he had built his hut and the bamboo fence surrounding it. The hut was painted white and had a roof of corrugated metal. For almost twenty years he had lived here totally alone after having cleared a piece of land and the beach in front of it. For all this he paid a peppercorn rent of ten dollars a year to the Australian government.

He regretted that a group of cultured-pearl farmers had moved in at the other end of the bay. We thought he would have welcomed having some other people nearby but he regarded them as trespassers on his island.

Gösta being filmed by Eino

He told us about the many adventures he had had and showed us some nasty scars on his legs from crocodile bites. He had become an Australian citizen and for the last few years had been getting a government pension which took care of all his material needs. But he still went crocodile-hunting on occasions or fished for barramundi, always accompanied by a native from one of the other islands. "They are my best mates," he said.

On the beach sat his canoe, named "Minnehaha"", meaning "Laughing Water" in some Red Indian language. Yes, he had lived amongst Red Indians, too. That was in Canada, before he came to Australia.

"Why did you choose this life?" we asked.

Gösta inside his hut

"Because I love my liberty!" he answered quickly and without hesitation. He had obviously considered this question many times.

"Didn't you ever miss a woman?"

"Yes, of course, but then I also have to get hold of a woman. I have never lived with a woman. I love my liberty!"

It sounded self-assured but by the time we had finished our filming and were to leave, we thought we knew the price he had paid for his freedom - what he called his "liberty" - and his carefree existence. He had seemed strangely touched by our visit as we recorded his message to his brother in Sweden.

Inside Ron's boat

"You are both welcome to come back and stay on my island," he said as we were about to depart. "Bring your wife and kids with you."

We could tell that he meant what he said although he knew quite well how unlikely another visit would be. Not many people ever come this far.

I had one last look into the cabin of his boat before I climbed down the rail. There were three guns, two with telescopic sight, a cracked mirror, an old radio, some cans and a pair of old-fashioned spectacles. The sum total of his life, plus loneliness, hardship, and the occasional sickness.

As we left, the outline of where he sat in the boat waving goodbye was getting smaller and smaller. Very soon it would be hard to believe he existed at all.

But both Eino and I had the tooth of a crocodile he had given us to prove that he was real!



Shades of German Harry and French Joe and many other characters who had succumbed to the siren song of the Torres Strait. I had lived and worked on Thursday Island in 1977 and got out before I had gone "troppo".

Islomaniac or just maniac?



Watching Martin Clunes' Islands of Britain, I came across this nutter, a Stewart Hill, who declared the 1-hectare wind-swept Forvik Island off the coast of Shetland, which had been gifted to him under dubious circumstances, a Crown Dependency.

His declaration of dependence stands on the wobbly legal leg of an arrangement struck in 1469 between King Christian I of Denmark/Norway and Scotland's King James III, whereby Christian effectively pawned the Shetland Islands to James in order to raise money for his daughter's dowry. Hill contends that as the loan was never repaid, and no other legal agreement ever put in place, Shetland remains in a constitutional limbo, and should properly enjoy the status of Crown Dependencies such as the Isle of Man or the Channel Islands.

"Captain Calamity", as he became known after he failed to circumnavigate the British Isles in his converted rowing boat, the "Maximum Exposure", and capsized off the coast of his new micro-nation, created his own website, on which he offers for sale Forvikean (?) citizenship complete with (yet-to-be-printed) passport, t-shirts of various colours and sizes, and even a car registration. He also sells one-square-metre "blocks" of land on his tiny rock and plans to issue his own currency. Why not? Every other nutter prints money in mad abundance these days!

Read all about Stuart Hill, warts and all, [here]. Since this is a self-confessed list of his "achievements", it must be assumed that the reality is far worse. As he writes, "Failure is not a word that usually enters my vocabulary".

David Glasheen, eat your heart out!

Teach a man to fish and he'll pay you €2,900 on a twin-share basis

Yours truly at the entrance to the old Niua'Kalo Hotel in 2006

 

When I travelled through the tiny Kingdom of Tonga in 2006, I befriended the resident expat Horst Berger on the island of Lifuka. As we cycled the length of the island, he took me to the former Niua'Kalo Beach Hotel where he bemoaned his lack of money to bring this place, slowly decaying under the hot tropical sun, back to life.

Well, somebody else has done so since: in a Hibernian-Teutonic joint venture, Brian and Sabine of Fins'n'Flukes have done a great job in restoring the place and now offer tourist accommodation in four double and twelve single rooms at very reasonable rates.

I mean, why stay at the vastly overpriced Sandy Beach Resort when you can live it up for a fraction of the price on Coco Beach?

While browsing Sandy Beach's website, I found this little rip-off:

Click to open pdf file in separate window

For a trifling €2,900 they'll teach you how to make a fire, open a coconut, and catch a fish, after which they dump you on tiny Luahoko Island so you can turn yourself into a latter-day Robinson Crusoe.

Ah, and yes, they also give you a mobile phone so you can call them back next morning after you've scratched yourself into a bloody mess during the first night under the stars with millions of mosquitoes and sandflies for company.

Joe and Villa Mamana on Teleki'vavau

From this                Villa Mamana on Teleki'vavau Island in Tonga ...
... Hotel Pension Senta in Berlin                             to this!


In February 2012 I received this email from Joe (Jörg) in Berlin:

Hi Peter,
I lost Horst's email address - horstberger??@??. Do you have it? Do you know if he sometimes checks it?
Regards from a very chilly Berlin,
Joe & Lola (formerly residents of Teleki'vavau Island, Ha'apai)
Hotel Pension Senta
Bundesallee 137, 12161 Berlin
Telefon: +49 (0)30 - 850 73 73
Fax: +49 (0)30 - 852 11 66
Email: info@hotel-senta.de
www.hotel-senta.de

I first heard about Joe when I visited Tonga in 2006 and quite by chance met Horst Berger who had at one time been caretaker on Joe's property, Villa Mamana, on tiny Teleki'vavau Island.

Joe had come to Tonga in 1994 following a royal visit to Germany by the late King Taufa'ahau Tupou IV. during which the king had invited German citizens to come and live and invest in his tiny kingdom. Joe, a pilot, had been looking for the right place to start his seaplane business in an island country with many islands and sandy beaches with shallow lagoons. He thought the Maldives were too Islamic, the Bahamas too screwed up, Fiji too Indian, but Tonga just right: very authentic, relatively untouched, with nice people and beautiful weather, and foreign investment officially welcomed.

Teleki'vavau, second from left, from the air

Joe and Lola at Villa MamanaHowever, with the Government delaying the issuing of an operating license for his seaplane, he and his by now Tongan wife Lola decided to wait and in the meantime build, as a support business to their original plans, Villa Mamana on Teleki'vavau. For more than six years he created, single-handedly with just the occasional help from some local fishermen, this most exquisite resort. It must've been a labour of love because the logistics and the costs to transport material and build on this tiny and remote island must have been quite daunting. Finally, he was able to welcome his first $500-a-day paying guests as well as Astrid and Martin, two non-paying "Weltenbummler", from whom he hoped to receive some much-needed publicity.

Eventually, with their two children needing schooling, Joe and Lola put Villa Mamana up for sale and moved to the main island Tongatapu, where there was little else to do but grow some vanilla and look after some cows and papaya plants.

FOR SALE
The Villa Mamana is situated on deserted Telekivava'u Island in the South Seas last kingdom, the Kingdom of Tonga, 37 nautical miles south of Pangai with its regional airport. This almost untouched part of Polynesia offers all the lonely island cliche could suggest: crystal clear waters, rich marine life, lush tropical vegetation, an authentic culture, and absolute peace of mind. The Villa (built in 1999)is right at the white beach and the shallow lagoon which surrounds the island. 3000 sq/ft of villa hold 2 1/2 bedrooms with ensuite marble bathrooms, the great room, two huge decks (which become part of the great room with the french doors opened), and a porch. All facing west to ensure beautiful sunsets over the warm South Pacific Ocean. High ceilings, wooden floors, teak furniture, and the light reflecting from the lagoon give the colonial style building its special charm. Amenities include: TV, VCD, Stereo, Satellite Phone, Fans, Washer, Workshop, Fishing Gear, etc Further down the beach you will find the kitchen house of 700 sq/ft(fully equipped)with a studio, and a smaller house (500sq/ft)which is ideal as caretaker quarter. Included in sale are also a 40ft motor yacht, a 27ft gamefishing power boat, a runabout, and utilities like: Two diesel gensets. Two inverters Two battery banks Solar pannels Desalination system Watertank and much more.

A couple of Americans from Hawai'i bought Villa Mamana, one of whom is Matt Muirhead. They continued to advertise the resort via their website www.villamamana.com which has since gone 'off the air'.

From Villa Mamana's original website

Roland SchwaraThis travel blog, written (in German) in April 2008 by Sandra and Thomas, two Swiss visitors to Ha'apai, mentions Loli (or Lolani, Roland Schwara) , a German who'd come out to Tonga in the mid-1990s, operated a diving school in Ha'apai and was then employed as caretaker at US$3,000 a month by Villa Mamana's new American owners who visited no more than two or three times a year for just a few days. Loli was making his once-a-month three-hour round-trip to Pangai, the administrative centre of Ha'apai, which, at 30 knots, cost 100 litres/hour of fuel, or US$600. At $1,500 a night, he only had three paying guests at Villa Mamana in the last 1-1/2 years and perhaps felt a bit lonely because he invited our Swiss travellers to stay on the island for a month for free and even offered them a few months' paid work as relieving caretakers!

According to a passing yachtie's blog dated 24 July 2010, "Telekivavau used to have a one guest house resort on it but the people have left and everything is boarded up, but we managed to tap into one of the water tanks and catch up on washing again. The front of the guest house looked lovely with all our washing strung between the coconut trees out front. There were green bananas and papayas, beans growing along the ground but nothing ripe yet."

And now Joe and Lola have returned to Germany and operate a 'Hotel-Pension' in the centre of Berlin! What I like to know is how somebody who's lived for over a decade in the South Seas can put up with the cold and crammed lifestyle in Germany? As he writes, "We all had the best time of our lives on the island, and will always miss it - unless we find another island and build a 'Villa Mamana Lite' just for us."

If home is where the heart is, where is Joe's heart and where is his home? The South Sea Islands are great cannibals; they have eaten the hearts of many of their visitors, who will never be wholly at home anywhere else again.



Steve, with whom Joe is still in contact and whom he describes as "a nice man, doing what I wish I could do", arrived on Telekivava'u in November 2003 and was the island's longest-serving caretaker, staying there for three to four years. Afterwards he lived for some more years in Vava'u which he has left only recently by boat. He called in at Telekivava'u again and is now somewhere in Melanesia.

 

P.S. The current owner of Villa Mamana, Matt Muirhead, asked me to resurrect the old website www.villamamana.com which I have done although I was not able to secure the old domain name.

P.P.S. Since then Matt's dream of paradise in the South Seas has turned to ashes - see here.

Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Vale Banjar Hills Retreat!

Klicke auf das Foto um es zu vergrössern

 

"Wir möchten uns kurz vorstellen und erzählen, wie wir unseren Weg nach Bali gefunden haben.

Wir sind Anke und Erik, um die 50 Jahre alt, kommen aus Deutschland und leben seit Mitte 2014 auf Bali, Indonesien. Unser Wunsch zum geeigneten Zeitpunkt Deutschland den Rücken zu kehren stand schon lange fest bevor wir im Januar 2014 Urlaub auf Bali machten. Wie die meisten Besucher haben auch wir uns gleich in diese zauberhafte Insel verliebt und nach einer Woche schon stand fest: Hier wollen wir bleiben.

Der „Zufall“ hat uns ungeplant zu diesem kleinen Stückchen Paradies namens Banjar Hills Retreat im ursprünglichen Norden Balis geführt, in welchem wir nur eine Nacht verweilten. Doch in dieser kurzen Zeit fanden wir heraus, dass die Eigentümer es weitergeben wollten und wir entschlossen uns spontan, zuzugreifen. Eine Entscheidung, die wir bis heute nicht bereuen. Drei kleine, zu vermietende Villen, ein großer erfrischender Pool als Herzstück des Retreats und als Highlight ein Terrassenrestaurant mit atemberaubender Aussicht: Panorama-Blick über den gesamten grünen Küstenstreifen, dahinter in ca. 3 Kilometern Luftlinie Frontal-Ansicht auf die scheinbar unendliche Weite der Java-See. Ein Traum.

Da wir hier ein kleines, intimes Anwesen mit wirklich liebevollem Personal übernahmen, stand fest, dem Ganzen einen persönlichen, familiären Charakter zu verleihen, fern von jedem Massentourismus.

Unsere direkte Nachbarschaft zum einzigen buddhistischen Kloster Balis, dem Brahma Vihara, und den Heiligen Quellen, Air Panas Banjar, gibt auch unserem neuen Zuhause eine ganz einzigartige Note, ein Platz an dem man wirklich „runter kommen“ kann vom stressigen Leben in der westlichen Welt. Hier hat man sowohl die Gelegenheit sich wieder auf sich selbst zu besinnen, sich zu entspannen, sich verwöhnen zu lassen, und/oder diesen Ort als Ausgangspunkt für die Erkundung der Insel zu nutzen.

In den ersten Monaten, in denen uns überwiegend Familie und Freunde besuchten, haben wir die Räumlichkeiten mit viel Liebe zum Detail verschönert und jedem Ort in unserem Hotel eine herzliche und individuelle Note verliehen. Nun sind wir bereit, mit allen Bali-Interessierten unsere neue Heimat zu teilen. Unser Ziel ist es, jedem Gast nicht nur das Gefühl zu geben, herzlich willkommen zu sein, sondern ihm seinen Aufenthalt bei uns zu einem unvergesslichen Erlebnis werden zu lassen. Wir organisieren vorgeplant oder auch spontan vor Ort alles was das Herz begehrt und machbar ist: Trekking-Touren durch atemberaubende Wasserfälle und Reisterrassen, Delfin-Touren mit Sonnenaufgang auf dem Meer, Tauch- und Schnorchel-Ausflüge zu den buntesten Korallenriffen Südostasiens, Dorfleben und Tempel-Kultur des ursprünglichen Balis oder sich zwischen Massagen, Mani-und Pediküre einfach an unserem herrlichen Pool die kulinarische Vielfalt der indonesischen Küche genießen…Auch Kurztrips zu den Nachbarinseln sind problemlos machbar: Schnorcheln und Chillen auf den berühmten Gili-Inseln von Lombok, Komodo-Warane auf der Jagd erleben auf Komodo, oder die Tempelanlage von Bodobudur auf Java zu bestaunen! Alles ist bei uns möglich.

Unser Konzept sieht vor, euch – basierend auf den individuellen Interessen, der verfügbaren Zeit und des Budgets – den Traumurlaub zu ermöglichen, von dem ihr schon immer geträumt habt. Wir werden unser Bestes dafür geben."

 

So schrieben Anke und Erik (Ralf) auf ihrer Webseite banjarhills.com.

Vielleicht war ihr Bestes nicht gut genug oder sie konnten damit kein Geld machen denn die Webseite wie auch sie sind inzwischen wieder weg. Wieder hat sich ein Inseltraum ausgeträumt! Hier ist noch einer dem es so ging: klicke hier.

Ich "entdeckte" Banjar Hills in 2006 - siehe hier - und verbrachte mehrere Wochen über mehrere Jahre in diesem Stückchen Paradies - meistens als einziger Gast denn für die meisten Touristen war es zu abgelegen. Für mich war es perfekt: völlige Ruhe in der ich endlos meine Bücher las und mitternachts im Pool planschte.

Jetzt wollen es die australischen Besitzer zumachen und verkaufen.

Vale Banjar Hills Retreat!

 

 

.

Monday, February 22, 2016

I wished

 

I wished that fat red arrow would point to my little "hole-in-the-wall" pied-à-terre in Sydney. Instead, my little renter is located under that scraggly yellow 'x' at the bottom near-centre of the photograph which I pinched from another real estate ad.

 

 

Still, if you knocked on the neighbours' door and demanded to be allowed into their bedroom and then stood on your toes, you could just see the Bridge ☺. Failing which the splendour of Sydney Harbour is just a short walk down the road - if you don't stop at my favourite watering-hole, the Blues Point Hotel, which these days I frequent only for its convenient and affordable accommodation.

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Die Berliner Buchdame hat sich angemeldet!

 

 

In Hamburg lebten zwei Ameisen,
die wollten nach Australien reisen.
Bei Altona, auf der Chaussee,
da taten ihnen die Beine weh,
und da verzichteten sie weise
dann auf den letzten Teil der Reise.

 

Dieses Ringelnatz-Gedicht schickte mir die Berliner Buchdame obwohl sie auf ihre Australien-Reise noch nicht verzichtet hat denn sie schrieb:

"Mein lieber Freund am anderen Ende der Welt, jedes Jahr habe ich es mir vorgenommen, nächstes Jahr aber ganz bestimmt fliegen wir nach Australien. Ich will doch noch das Kreuz des Südens sehen. Wir müssen uns ranhalten, der Countdown läuft unerbittlich."

Also ist es jetzt offiziell und sie und ihr "Denkmal" Jürgen" kommen im nächsten Jahr nach Australien, vorausgesetzt ich bin noch nicht weg, entweder vom "Riverbend" oder ganz und gar ☻

 

Sunday, February 7, 2016

Ich denke oft an Piroschka

 

Weg von Braunschweig in 1963 und weg von Deutschland in 1965 und der letzte Besuch war in 1984. Kein Wunder daß ich manchmal ein bisschen 'Heimweh' habe (oder ist es 'Fernweh'?) Um es zu bewältigen schaute ich mir einen alten deutschen Film an - "Ich denke oft an Piroschka" - und ich schickte ihn auch an meine erste (und einzige) deutsche Freundin von den frühen 60er Jahren. Sie schrieb prompt zurück:

"Hallo Peter, natürlich kenne ich den Film und habe ihn mir auch schon ganz oft angesehen!! Meistens kullern bei diesem Film auch Tränchen. Piroschka ist so verliebt in Andi und er merkt es anfänglich gar nicht. So verträumt und romantisch war ich auch, als wir uns kennenlernten, aber Du hattest Fernweh. Die Beiden hatten auch einmal im Leben die Möglichkeit sich lieben zu können. Uns war es vergönnt, die Zeit war zu kurz !! Ich denke oft an unser letztes Treffen und werde Dich auch nie vergessen. Der Andi hat seine Piri auch nie vergessen. Fühl Dich von mir innig umarmt."

Die wirklich schönen Erinnerungen bleiben lebendig und haben einen unauslöschlichen Glanz.